Start with the Right Base
Before you even think about picking up your contour stick, your skin needs to be ready. Moisturizer and primer aren’t optional they’re your foundation’s support system. Moisturizer keeps skin smooth and hydrated so the product doesn’t settle into fine lines or dry patches. Primer locks that in and gives everything you layer on a surface to grip.
Next: foundation. Don’t just grab the first bottle that looks close. Think coverage (sheer, medium, full), finish (matte, dewy, natural), and undertone (cool, warm, neutral). Your skin changes with the season, so a match in January won’t necessarily work in July.
Here’s a step people skip: let your products sit for a few seconds before blending. Warming up on the face allows foundation to melt into your skin rather than slide around. Your blending will be easier and more seamless.
Want step by step visuals and extra tips? Check out our foundation application guide.
Understanding Your Face Shape
Before you reach for a brush, get familiar with your bone structure. Most faces fall into one of four basic shapes: oval, heart, round, or square. Each shape has different angles and focal points, and knowing yours will help you contour and highlight with purpose not guesswork.
Oval faces are balanced and slightly longer than they are wide. Highlight the center of the forehead and under the eyes. Contour lightly along the sides of the forehead and under the cheekbones.
Heart shaped faces have wider foreheads and pointed chins. Focus highlight under the eyes and down the nose; contour along the temples and bottom of the chin to bring balance.
Round faces have similar width and length, with soft angles. You’ll want to highlight the center of the face and contour the sides to create more definition think cheek hollows and jawline.
Square faces have strong jawlines and broad foreheads. Highlight the middle of the forehead and under the eyes. Contour the corners of the forehead and along the jaw to dial back sharp angles.
A quick way to map your face? Look straight into a mirror with good natural light. Use the edge of a brush or your finger to trace along the shadow lines that naturally occur under your cheekbones, along the temples, and near the jaw. That’s your starting point for contour. For highlight, find the areas that naturally catch the light those are your high points. Work from what your face already gives you, and you won’t go wrong.
Highlighting: Bringing Light to High Points
Creating dimension with light is just as important as adding depth. Highlighting enhances your natural features by attracting brightness to specific areas of the face.
Cream vs. Powder Highlighters
Choosing the right highlighter texture depends on your skin type, desired finish, and overall look:
Cream Highlighters
Blend seamlessly into skin for a dewy, natural finish
Ideal for dry to normal skin types
Apply with fingertips or a damp sponge for best results
Powder Highlighters
Give a more defined, luminous glow
Great for oily or combination skin
Best applied with a soft fan or tapered brush
Where to Highlight
Focus on the high points of the face these are the areas that naturally catch light:
Top of the cheekbones
Bridge and tip of the nose
Center of the forehead
Chin
Brow bones (just under the arch)
Avoid placing highlighter too close to texture or fine lines, as it can accentuate them.
Pro Tip: Adjust for Your Environment
Not all lighting is created equal. The intensity of your highlight should reflect your setting:
Use a subtle, diffused highlighter for daylight or everyday wear
Opt for a stronger shimmer or glow for photoshoots, evening events, or editorial looks
The goal is to enhance not overpower your natural complexion. Start with less and layer gradually for buildable radiance.
Contouring: Creating Natural Looking Depth
Contouring is one of the most transformative techniques in makeup but when done incorrectly, it can look harsh or muddy. The key? Choosing the right undertone, knowing where to place it, and blending with intention.
Choose the Right Contour Product
Not all contour shades are created equal. Understanding undertones can make the difference between a flattering shadow and an obvious line.
Cool undertones: Mimic natural shadows best for fair to medium skin tones.
Warm undertones: Add softness and warmth better suited for medium to deep skin tones.
Avoid shimmer: Contour should create depth, not reflect light.
Placement for Your Face Shape
The way you contour depends on the natural structure of your face. Here’s a simplified guide:
Oval faces: Focus on adding depth below cheekbones for definition.
Round faces: Contour along the temples, jawline, and lower cheeks to elongate the face.
Heart shaped faces: Soften the forehead and define the jaw for balance.
Square faces: Add contour to the corners of the forehead and jaw to round out edges.
Blend with Purpose
Contouring is all about subtlety. Harsh lines are a giveaway, so keep layers thin and blend deliberately.
Use a light hand and build gradually
Blend in upward motions to lift the face
Use dual ended brushes or damp sponges depending on your product type
Pro tip: Always check your contour under natural light to make sure it looks seamless, not streaked.
With the right technique, contouring doesn’t just shape your face it enhances your natural bone structure while keeping your overall look soft and wearable.
Tools That Make the Difference
Having the right tools and knowing how to use them can elevate your highlight and contour game from beginner to pro. Let’s break down the essentials for application technique and tool maintenance.
Sponges vs. Brushes: What Works Best and When
Choosing between sponges and brushes depends on your product type and desired finish.
Sponges:
Ideal for cream and liquid products
Offers a soft, airbrushed finish
Great for pressing product into the skin for a more natural look
Brushes:
Best for powder products and detailed work
Offers precision placement (especially for contour lines)
Denser brushes can be used to build intensity
Tip: Use a damp sponge for blending cream contour or foundation, and a fluffy brush to diffuse powder highlight or contour.
Buffing vs. Stippling Techniques
Application methods can make or break your look understanding these two core techniques will help you control product placement and blending.
Buffing:
Circular motion using a dense brush
Ideal for blending contour into skin seamlessly
Best for achieving a soft, gradient finish
Stippling:
Tapping or bouncing motion with brush or sponge
Prevents shifting underlying products
Great for building coverage gradually without looking cakey
Clean Tools, Clear Skin
Dirty tools not only muddle your makeup but can introduce bacteria to your skin.
Clean brushes weekly with a gentle cleanser
Wash sponges after every few uses or daily if used frequently
Let tools dry completely before storing to prevent mold or mildew
Regular maintenance doesn’t just extend the life of your tools it ensures a smoother, cleaner finish every time you apply your makeup.
Finishing Touches That Lock It In
The final steps in your highlight and contour routine are what truly bring the whole look together and make it last. These techniques ensure your makeup doesn’t budge, crease, or fade prematurely. Here’s how to seal everything in place while keeping your skin looking fresh and natural.
Setting with Translucent Powder: Use It Strategically
Translucent powder can be your best friend or your worst enemy depending on how and where you use it.
When to Use It:
If you have oily skin or experience creasing in your T zone
When wearing makeup for extended periods or under warm lighting (events, shoots, etc.)
To mattify shine without adding extra coverage
When to Avoid It:
On dry or textured areas, where powder can cling and exaggerate flakes or lines
If you’re aiming for a dewy, natural finish
Directly over cream products that haven’t been blended fully
Mist Moments: Setting Sprays that Pull It All Together
A good setting spray does more than just lock in makeup it helps everything blend seamlessly and eliminates that overly matte or powdery look.
Tips for Using Setting Spray:
Hold the bottle 8 10 inches away from your face
Use an “X” and “T” motion to mist evenly
Apply in light layers let it dry and add another pass if needed
For extra blend, press in with a damp sponge after misting
Final Check: Natural Light Never Lies
Before heading out, give your face a once over in natural lighting. Artificial or indoor lighting can mask imperfections or harsh lines that become visible in the daylight.
Things to Watch For:
Harsh contour lines along the jaw or forehead
Unblended product around the nose or hairline
Over powdered areas that look dry or cakey
Always travel with a mini blending sponge or puff for quick touch ups on the go.
These small details at the end make a big difference in how polished and long lasting your look turns out.
Bonus Tip: Learn the Layers
Blending cream products before laying down any powder isn’t just a nice to have it’s what keeps your base from turning patchy or cakey. Creams need a chance to melt into your skin and each other before you seal them in. Rush it, and you’ll end up with texture where you don’t want it.
Give every layer a moment to settle. Whether it’s contour, blush, or highlight, a few seconds of patience goes a long way. Letting products breathe and bind helps everything wear smoother and hold longer throughout the day.
Still working on nailing that seamless finish? Start by mastering your foundation game. Don’t miss the foundation application guide—it lays the groundwork.
Makeup isn’t static. Play with placement, try new combos, and study what flatters your real face not just the tutorial you watched. The more you test, the more tailored and natural your results become.
